For example, I tried a new sandpaper on the inner hull surface, and there was an odd grit or something that scratched up the interior surface. This is where it gets pretty exciting. Either hardener gave me about 30 minutes of working time before beginning to stiffen that was at about 70 degrees. It could help to elevate the forms another inch or two more from the strongback. Some makers have commented about thwarts and seats getting rammed through the hull walls during compression, so all such components have been designed on my build so that cannot happen. For example, the thwarts are level with and blend directly into the inner rails mortise and tenon, dowel and biscuit joints will do , and the seats butt up against and are supported by vertical ribs instead of hanging from the rails.
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Once the outer hull is complete, the forms were knocked out and the canoe was turned over. A file and sanding block can quickly smooth out any irregularities in the edges of the forms. I have never ever paddle a canoe that attracts so much attention. The side walls had sagged outward since coming off of the forms. Pettit Hi-Build is our first choice for marine varnish. Squeeze glue into the meeting lines.
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If it doesn't work out, I can always install fixed seats later. Some sanding is always going to be necessary at this point just prior to varnishing. In choosing a canoe to buy or build, first consider its intended use. The horizontal lines on the forms are the theoretical waterline.
I marked lines at one-foot intervals on the strongback; the faces of the forms are aligned with these lines. Either hardener gave me about 30 minutes of working time before beginning to stiffen that was at about 70 degrees. In this case, after evaluating a variety of designs and companies, I purchased the design plans from Green Valley Boat Works Canada. I don't know that I could say one actual sands better than the other. Now that these are on, it "looks" almost finished.